Craig Rogan at The Collective, Leeds
Review Date: 24th August 2024
I was eyeing up this restaurant for quite some time, drawn in by the unique and creative dishes on their tasting menu. Each description seemed to take me on a journey of curiosity—how would it be presented, what would it taste like? I found myself wondering how all of my senses would be dazzled, and I knew I had to experience it for myself. So, for my birthday, I decided to make it happen. My dad and I booked a table two months in advance, ensuring that we wouldn’t miss out on the chance to savour the restaurant’s delights.
The evening of the highly anticipated meal was perfect for the occasion. It was that transitional time of year when the air starts to crisp, and the nights slowly stretch longer, wrapping the city in a cool, yet still slightly warm, late-summer embrace. Walking through the lively streets of Leeds, I couldn’t help but feel a wave of nostalgia for city life. The sounds of laughter and chatter filled the air as people gathered in outdoor seating areas, savouring their meals and toasting to special occasions. There were groups celebrating birthdays, stag dos, hen dos, or simply the joy of being together. The city was alive with energy, which only heightened my excitement for what was to come.
Tonight wasn’t just about celebrating another year; it was about indulging in a completely new dining experience—my very first tasting menu. The anticipation had been building for weeks, and as we approached the restaurant, the atmosphere around us made it feel all the more special. This was more than just a meal; it was the start of a culinary adventure that I had been looking forward to for so long.
The Menu
The menu had everything I loved, and each course flowed seamlessly into the next. Each dish offered a glimpse into what was to come, showcasing a variety that kept my palate engaged and excited. Unlike other tasting menus I’ve seen, where you’re given only one ingredient or no hint at all of what to expect—an approach that always made me a bit nervous—Craig Rogan’s menu provided enough detail to feel both informed and intrigued. I encountered some flavors I’d never tried before, such as harissa, Kidderton Ash, and Biquinho peppers, each adding a unique twist to the experience.
Course 1
Heritage Beetroot, Walnut, Green Chilli, Kidderton Ash
Despite its modest size, this dish packed an incredible punch of flavors. Each mouthful was a delightful experience, with the creamy Kidderton Ash—a type of goat's cheese that happens to be one of my favorites—bringing a rich and tangy depth to the plate. The beetroot provided a subtle, earthy sweetness, perfectly complemented by the fruity notes and gentle heat from the green chili. The walnuts added a satisfying crunch, balancing the textures beautifully. Though small in portion, this dish left a lasting impression, showcasing the chef’s ability to deliver complex flavours in every bite.
Course 2
Freshly Baked Sourdough, Beef Fat Butter
We were pleasantly surprised when our waiter brought over this unexpected little dish to share. My dad and I exchanged puzzled looks, thinking, "These aren't prawns," but quickly realized it was a special treat from the chef—a creation they had been experimenting with and wanted to share with us.
The star of the dish was undoubtedly the beef fat butter. It was nothing short of unreal, melting effortlessly into the freshly baked, crisp sourdough. The butter was incredibly light yet packed with a rich umami flavor, reminiscent of a hint of Marmite but far more decadent. Each bite was a perfect harmony of textures and tastes, with the butter adding an indulgent layer to the warm, crusty bread.
Course 3
King Prawns, Nduja, Scotch Bonnet, Cucumber
This dish was an absolute standout, served in a delicate broth split with Nduja oil. The broth had a gentle heat from the Scotch Bonnet chili, which I initially expected to be overwhelmingly spicy, but it turned out to be perfectly balanced, adding layers of rich flavor without overpowering the dish. The prawns were incredibly tender, cooked to perfection, and practically melted in your mouth. The cucumber provided a subtle cooling effect and a satisfying crunch, which complemented the warmth of the broth beautifully. Every element of this dish came together harmoniously, making it a phenomenal experience from the first spoonful to the last.
Course 4
Potato, Hen of the Woods, Charcoal Cheddar, Sherry Vinegar
This dish was a comforting blend of creamy, rich, and light flavors. The potato provided a smooth, velvety base, while the sherry vinegar cut through the richness, adding a sharp acidity that balanced the dish beautifully. The Charcoal Cheddar—a personal favorite of mine, especially during the holiday season when my dad and I enjoy it on our Christmas cheeseboard—offered a distinctive, sharp bite that paired perfectly with the other elements. We usually get this cheese from a local cheesemonger in Leeds called "Cryer & Stott," so it was a pleasant surprise to see it featured here.
The Hen of the Woods mushroom was a delightful revelation. I had never tried this variety before, and its texture was incredibly soft, almost melting in the mouth with each bite. It added an earthy depth to the dish that complemented the creamy potato and sharp cheddar. Overall, this dish was the epitome of comfort food, elevated by the thoughtful balance of flavours and textures.
Course 5
Market Fish, Broad Beans, Celeriac, Harissa
The market fish featured in this dish was Norwegian Salmon, and while salmon typically isn’t one of my favourite fish, this dish completely changed my perspective. I usually dislike when fish tastes overly fishy, but this salmon was an exception—it was light, flaky, and bursting with delicate flavours. The sourness from the harissa perfectly complemented the richness of the fish, adding just the right amount of zing without overpowering it. Although the dish may have lacked in visual appeal, the flavours more than made up for it, speaking volumes and leaving a lasting impression. This was a dish that made me truly appreciate salmon in a way I hadn’t before.
Course 6
Aged Yorkshire Beef, Carrot, Binquinho Peppers, Shimeji Mushroom
This dish was just superb. The aged Yorkshire beef was incredibly tender, almost melting in your mouth with every bite. Cooked perfectly, it was rich and full of flavor, making the quality of the meat really shine. The carrots added a nice sweetness that balanced out the richness of the beef, while the Biquinho peppers brought a mild heat and a bit of tanginess that made the dish even more interesting. The Shimeji mushrooms were a great addition too, adding a soft texture and a bit of earthiness that worked well with everything else. Overall, this dish was a winner, with each part coming together to make something really satisfying.
Course 7
Clotted Cream, Raspberry, Walnut, Bergamot
This dessert tasted like a wonderfully elevated version of a classic raspberry ripple ice cream. The rich, whipped clotted cream provided that familiar, creamy base, but with a touch more decadence. The raspberry and bergamot sorbet added a refreshing twist, with the tartness of the raspberry and the bright, citrusy notes of bergamot lifting the flavours to a new level. The walnut crumb added a delightful crunch, bringing texture and depth to the dish. It was a nostalgic treat, but with a sophisticated twist that made it feel extra special.
Course 8
Elderflower, Strawberry, White Chocolate
This dish brought a tear to my eye. The flavors instantly took me back to cherished memories of my aunt and a summer filled with endless sunshine. I remembered those golden evenings in her beautifully manicured garden, where she would bring out ice cream that tasted just like this. Each mouthful flooded me with happiness and nostalgia.
Even though the dish was simple, it was absolutely beautiful. The subtle hint of elderflower running through the ice cream added a delicate floral note that paired perfectly with the super sweet, fresh strawberries. The crumble of white chocolate on top added just the right amount of sweetness and texture. It was a surprise course, and though it wasn’t complex, its simplicity is what made it so special. It was a heartfelt reminder of happy times and a testament to how powerful food can be.
Overall Review
Atmosphere: The atmosphere was calm and tranquil, providing the perfect setting for a memorable dining experience. The décor was absolutely stunning, contributing to the overall sense of relaxation and elegance.
Service: The staff were genuinely friendly and attentive, making sure every detail was covered. They explained each dish thoroughly, ensuring you knew exactly what you were about to enjoy. I also noticed that they provided an impressively in-depth explanation of the wine flight to other diners, which was a nice touch. Overall, you felt completely comfortable and well taken care of in their hands.
Food & Drink: The menu was fantastic, offering a delightful exploration of a range of flavors that were simply incredible. Each course flowed beautifully into the next, with some surprise dishes appearing between courses that added an unexpected and delightful element to the meal.
Value: For six courses, plus the additional surprise dishes, the value was excellent. The quality and creativity of the food far exceeded expectations, making the entire experience feel like a real treat.
Overall Experience: 5 Stars—what more can I say? From the stunning atmosphere to the exceptional service and incredible food, it was an unforgettable dining experience that I would highly recommend.
★★★★★
“Good food is the foundation of genuine happiness.”
— Auguste Escoffier